Life
Aboard the Trans-Siberian Train
A multimedia presentation

"Good luck," says the Russian agent as your ticket is stamped. Is this a warning? What happened to "have a nice trip?"

Your living quarters

Carriage after carriage, the Trans-Siberian train is a rolling dormitory. Each carriage has 10 compartments on one side, and windows on the other.

Have a look at your compartment. About 6' x 6' in size, there are four berths, or beds. By day all four passengers sit on the lower berths; two people sleep on the upper berths at night. You'll share a small table (about 2' x 1') for meals. The window over the table is large and gives a great view, but likely doesn't open. Baggage (pack exceptionally light)is stored under the seat of the lower berths and on an overhead rack.

The atmosphere

If you're planning to rest in quiet peace, you'd best purchase a 1st class compartment shared by only two passengers because train life is one long party that moves from one compartment to the next. Sliding doors to each compartment are left open and people stop in, have a seat, and insist upon sharing food and vodka. You might be able to refuse the vodka, but never refuse the food. Russians may be poor, but never lack for generousity and are offended if you reject their offers.

Music plays randomly all hours of the day and night over a common loud speaker. Becoming a background music, you may suddenly realize it is too quiet when it stops for a time.

Listen to its distinctive sound that remains with you for weeks after you return home.

Food

You have several options for food:

• Eating in the dining car
  It's truely amazing how many dishes can be made from cabbage and potatoes. Though the selection is limited, make no mistake, these soups, dishes and breads are very good and very inexpensive.
• Bringing it along (but bring enough to share)
  Boiling water is always available from a tap.
• Buying it from peasants during the five minute stops in Siberian villages.
  Waiting at every stop are vendors selling boiled eggs or potatoes, broth, cheese, bread, and milk. You need your own containers since the peasant dips it out of their pots into your can or cup. The boiled items are safe to eat, but the milk is sold warm right out of the farmer's pail and is best to avoid.

The carriage warden (I mean attendant)

Every carriage has a no-nonsense woman who controls everything. Don't get on her bad side. She delivers the tea, provides the linen, watches out for your safety, and very importantly, cleans the toilet room.

The attendant's welcome to the train coach.

Watch a short video clip of daily tea being served.

Sanitation

Set your sanitation expectations to the level of a rustic backpacking trip and you'll be able to cope.